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By On March 20, 2022



You've just gotten a new kitten and provided it with food, water, and a comfortable spot to sleep. What about their kitty litter? Learning appropriate litter box training is an essential aspect of every indoor cat's existence, as most cats are surrendered to shelters due to home soiling. With only a little basic understanding, you can help your kitten avoid this and live happily ever after.

When Should You Begin Training?

Most cats will learn to use the litter box spontaneously, but litter training is quite simple. Kittens will begin using the litter box as early as four weeks old, so begin as soon as possible if you have a kitten with you. However, don't start before four weeks because the kitten won't comprehend anything and won't even start walking until two weeks.

However, if you adopt a kitten, you will most likely not expose them to your house until they are older. Start litter training your kitten as soon as you bring it home, regardless of its age.

Litter Training

You'll see the kitten digging and playing with the litter when you start training at four weeks. Your kitten will intuitively begin to bury its feces after that. When it comes to learning the chores, you may assist your kitty.

Begin by putting your kitten in the litter box and allowing them to dig on their own. While they're digging, teach them by sweeping some litter yourself and pretending to be digging as well. If they aren't getting it, this may pique their curiosity. It's important to remember that your kitten doesn't have to eliminate the first time they use the litter box. Allow them to experiment with it and get used to it initially. If they leap out of the box, put them back in it sometimes during the day, but don't make them remain.

Habits of Kittens

You may see your kitten eating the litter until they learn to distinguish between where they feed and where they excrete. Don't be concerned, but keep an eye on them to ensure their safety. Clumping litter should be avoided at this age because it will clump up inside the kitten's digestive tract.

Kittens don't understand the meaning of different locales until they're about six weeks old. Because they'll already know where they need to go, this is when you may expect the most success.

 Other Cats

This isn't always a negative thing if you have other cats in the house. Your kitten will learn to recognize the litter box by smell and touch, as well as by studying what adult cats do and seeing other kittens use it. If you persuade one kitten to use the litter box, the others are likely to follow suit.

However, your kitten may not want to use a box that has already been used by another cat. Some cats are quite territorial and will need their litter box to go to the bathroom.

Organize the Box

It is your responsibility as a kitten owner to keep your cat's litter tidy. If it's dirty, they won't utilize it. Maintain the box and store it in a less loud location. If you're also utilizing an automated litter box, make sure your cat is accustomed to the sounds so they aren't put off.

Location of the Box

Your kitten may know how to use the litter box, but they must also be aware of its location. Don't put it in an area where it'll be too noisy, and don't put it in a position where your kitty won't be able to get to it easily. Cats like to use their litter box in their own space, so leave them alone on occasion. If you have a hyperactive dog who is eager to get to it, raise it only a few inches above the ground.

There will be no penalties.

Do not reprimand or discipline your cat if they are misbehaving. They'll be confused and scared if you scream or spray them since they won't understand why you're upset. Simply wipe up any spills and see your veterinarian if you notice anything unusual.

Consider These Factors for Your Kitten

You understand the fundamentals of how to teach your kitten and when to begin, but there are a few details concerning the litter box that you should be aware of as well. Consider these suggestions to make the transfer to the box go more smoothly.

To begin, keep the box away from food and water. It'll just cause the kitten to become confused. Even if you can smell the scents, start with an open box. Fill the box with approximately a half-inch of litter, but don't use newspaper or plastic liners to line it (Best Pellet Paper Cat Litter). They are prone to tearing. It may take some time to figure out which sort of litter your kitty prefers. Once you've located it,


Keep in mind that...

Neither clumping litter nor strong sprays should be used around the box. Chemicals like those will make cats flee. Remember to allow your kitten some solitude, and take them to the doctor if you notice them peeing outside the box after you've trained them. This might indicate a bladder or renal issue.


Bringing a new kitten into your house is thrilling, but you might be nervous about litter training them. Your cat will start using the litter box on their own around four weeks and will acclimatize to your house fast with a little support from you. As long as you keep these points in mind, the adjustment should be simple for both of you.

10 Solutions To Stop Your Dog from Whining at Night

By On January 30, 2022

 Solutions To Stop Your Dog from Whining 

Stop Your Dog from Whining

There are a number of reasons your dog could be whining at night, however they all have one thing in common, they result in you having a broken night's sleep. To help you deal with this behaviour problem and sleep through the night, we've listed 10 solutions below that could bring peace to your house after the lights go out.

1. Work out Why Your Dog is Whining

If you can work out what lies behind your dog's whining you stand a better chance of choosing the right approach and being successful in stopping the problem. The three most common causes of dog whining is anxiety, discomfort or attention seeking, so watch your dog closely to see what clues they give you. Notice how you react when they start whining and how they react to you, as it should give you all the information you need to decide on your approach to the problem and start taking action.

2. Make Basic Checks Before You go to Bed

We sometimes overlook the most obvious reasons, so make sure your dog isn't whining because they are hungry, thirst or need to urinate at night. Get into the habit of always letting your dog out last thing at night, as beyond the puppy stage they should be able to go through the night. If they need to urinate frequently, check with your vet as they could have a urine infection. If you do need to let them out at night, do it with as little attention paid to your dog as possible, as if you play with them or pet them they could start to wake you up at night for the attention.


3. Check That Your Dog Isn't Cold

Some dogs start whining at night because they are cold, so if they sleep in a kennel outside, make sure it is out of the wind and that you provide lots of warm bedding and if they sleep in the house, check that their bed is not in a draught. Some dog owners use bean bags that can be warmed up to keep their dog warm, cosy and asleep all night and I have heard of others who even use heated blankets. However, if you are going to use this method, always make sure your dog does not get too hot and that they are unable to chew any wires attached to the blanket.

4. Deal with Dog Separation Anxiety Issues

A lot of dog whining is driven by separation anxiety in dogs, so if your dog sleeps separately from you and starts being vocal the moment you leave them alone, anxiety could well be the reason. Another clue that this might be the cause is that they respond in this way whenever you leave them, day or night. You will need to use desensitization training to help get rid of separation anxiety and a lot of patience, as they can take a while to respond positively. Another way to help with this problem is to learn how to show your dog that you are the decision maker or pack leader, which can be very reassuring for an anxious dog.

5. Make Sure Your Dog is Tired

If your dog gets restless at night, struggles to settle down and then starts whining at you, try exercising them an hour before bedtime to use up some of their excess energy. Many dogs will instantly flop down on their bed to sleep after a long walk, but if walking after dark doesn't appeal to you, try an energetic game of tag or fetch in the garden or house.

6. Soothe Your Dog with Sounds

A ticking clock placed in the dog's bedding can help keep a dog calm as the ticking mimics the regular heartbeat of another dog. This can be very useful with dogs that don't like to be left alone and especially with puppies that could be missing their Mum or brothers and sisters. Just beware that your dog cannot reach the clock and use it as a chew toy.

7. Soothe Your Dog with Smells

If you think your dog is whining at night because they wake up and want you, put something that smells of you in with their bedding, like an old jumper or T-Shirt. This may provide just enough comfort to keep your dog sleeping until morning.

8. Make Sure Your Dog is Pain Free

Pain or discomfort of some kind could be causing your dog to wake and start whining, for instance a dog may not notice joint pain until they lie down at night. If you think that could be the case with your dog, have them checked over by your vet as soon as possible.

9. Get Your Dog a Crate

A crate can feel like a den to a dog, so if you think your dog is feeling a bit insecure left alone downstairs at night, a crate could give them the extra security they need. When you introduce them to a crate, make it a nice place to be with bedding and toys and treats. Gradually build up the time they spend in their crate during the day until you feel like they will be all right to be left overnight.

10. Ignore Your Dog's Noise

If your dog's nighttime noise is all about getting your attention, the fastest way to stop it is to ignore it completely. That means not responding in any way to their whining, don't speak to them, touch them, or even catch their eye. It's not always the easiest way to break this pattern of behaviour, as you can feel really guilty for a few days, but if your dog is healty, has been fed, watered, exercised and let out to toilet before bedtime, you know they are fine, so invest in a pair of ear plugs and stick with it. It shouldn't be too long before they work out that their whining is not getting them the attention they were looking for and they should stop.


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What Do You Train Your Kitten For?

By On January 28, 2022

Train Your Kitten For

You are enjoying have your new kitten called Angel in your household and are wondering what you train your kitten for. Take a look at these four points.

1. To Use the Litter Box

You need to give Angel clear, consistent guidelines so you have set a litter box up in the porch and another one in the spare room. It is suggested for one cat to have two litter boxes. Cats are shy when it comes to toileting. These places are quiet areas away from the rest of the household.

You can use good absorbable litter ( hopefully Angel will like it ) and plan to replace it every 2 or 3 days rather than 1 time per week. The cleaner the litter box the more likely it is to be used. And it is important for cats to toilet regularly to avoid health issues like urinary tract disease, which is very common and debilitating. To help with this you should always keep unlimited supplies of water for Angel, maybe a couple of bowls around the house. The idea is to encourage Angel to drink more and pee more to avoid health problems.

If Angel suddenly displays some bad behaviours like missing or avoiding the litter box or toileting on your favourite chair then we will have to go through the checklist.

  • 1. did you move the litter box?
  • 2. is there any more traffic, eg guests to stay?
  • 3. did you renovate the room?
  • 4. did you change the box or the type of litter?
  • 5. could it be a health related issue like urinary tract infection or kidney disease where they associate the pain with the litter box and stop using it? This will need to be checked.

Training your kitten to use the litter box should be as stress free as possible. Hopefully Angel will adjust well to this.


2. To Display Acceptable Behaviours

Cats claw, scratch, bite and chew for many reasons. If they are doing these things to food items or their cat toys then that is great. But sometimes they do it on other things like your new couch or electrical cord which not only destroys your property but is potentially dangerous or you. Do not tolerate rough play. If they are allowed to play aggressively with the wrong things then young cats will turn out to be an older, stronger, aggressive cat. You can stop playing with your cat if they start biting or scratching.

If Angel scratches then you should offer some scratching alternatives to you, like a scratching mat or scratching post. These are mush more acceptable!!

Angel is young and will be exploring her world, like human babies do, by mouthing and chewing on things. So we will give Angel substitutes and reward her for chewing and scratching on the right item.

Over vocalisation can be another issue to deal with. Some cats rarely meow and some never seem to shut up. This constant crying and need for reassurance may be the one that is the most difficult to figure out. If Angel needs help here you may call in the professionals.

3. To Address Problems Like:

a. Marking territory with urine or poo:

While this is fine outside it becomes a problem inside.

b. Grooming Problems:

Some cats groom themselves excessively to the point of losing fur and creating

bald patches.

c. Sickness problems:

If Angel displays any of these behaviours then she will need help.

Hopefully she will be content and groom like the very relaxed cat in the picture.

4. To Do Tricks

You are going to have fun training Angel to do all sorts of tricks including commands like:

to come, sit, beg, sit, stay, jumping up, twirling, climbing a ladder, wave, kiss and more.

Training your kitten to use the litter box, behave well, do various tricks, plus identifying problems which need fixing will take time but are ideas on what you can do to train your kitten.

There certainly is a lot you can do to train your kitten. Hopefully you can help guide her in the right direction so that she will settle in well and you and your family can enjoy your fury friend for many years.

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Eight Foods Your Cat Should Never, Ever Eat

By On January 20, 2022

 Your Cat Should Never, Ever Eat

Your Cat Should Never, Ever Eat

Most of us know that there are some human foods our pets shouldn't eat. Keeping our cats away from alcohol, for example, is a no-brainer. But did you know that onion powder can cause anemia in cats and dogs? Because of their different metabolisms, many common foods that are safe for human consumption are not safe for your cat. Reactions can range from upset stomachs to severe illness or death.


To help keep your kitty safe you need to know which foods to avoid. The following list spotlights eight common foods your cat should never eat:

Baby Food

It's hard to imagine that a food that's safe enough for a baby's tender tummy would hurt our fur-kids. But what makes baby food so dangerous for cats is that it might contain onion powder (see below) which could lead to anemia. Also, baby food doesn't meet your cat's nutritional needs, and could result in malnutrition if she eats too much of it.


Most people know that chocolate is bad for dogs, but many of us don't realize that it's harmful for cats as well. Chocolate contains theobromine, a chemical compound that humans can eat safely. But cats and dogs metabolize theobromine more slowly; as a result, even small amounts of the compound can lead to theobromine poisoning, which can cause vomiting, diarrhea, excitability, panting, abnormal heart rate, tremors, seizures - and even death. Theobromine poisoning is treatable if caught early enough. But to be safe, keep chocolate away from your kitty.

Coffee and Tea

Caffeine is toxic to both cats and dogs, and there's no antidote. According to ProVet Healthcare, it only takes about 8 teaspoons of coffee to potentially fatally poison a cat that weighs 3 kilograms (that's about 6.6 lbs). Signs of caffeine poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea, panting, hyperactivity, restlessness, muscle tremors, increased or decreased heart rate, irregular heart rhythm, increased body temperature. But most scary of all: caffeine poisoning can lead to seizures, coma and death.

Grapes and Raisins

Scientists aren't sure exactly just what substance is in grapes and raisins that make them so toxic for our pets, but according to the ASPCA Poison Control Center, dogs who've eaten large amounts of grapes and raisins have suffered renal (kidney) failure. Although it's unclear what effect grapes have on cats, to be on the safe side the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center "advises not giving grapes or raisins to any pets in any amount."

Onions and Garlic

Raw, powdered and uncooked onions and garlic are especially harmful to cats because they damage red blood cells, which could cause anemia. Not only does anemia make your kitty pale and lethargic, it can be a life threatening illness.


The jury's still out on whether or not spinach is bad for cats, but scientists do know that spinach leaves contain a small amount of calcium oxalates (a chemical compound that makes needle-shaped crystals), which is a major component in kidney stones. If your cat eats enough spinach, it could lead to crystals in her urine. Cats with a history of urinary problems such as infections, crystaluria and kidney disease, should definitely avoid eating spinach.

Unripe Tomato

Everyone knows that tomatoes are good for humans. But did you know that they can be toxic to cats? Tomatoes are a member of the deadly nightshade plant family and contain a poisonous alkaloid called, solanine. Solanine is toxic to humans too. But you have to eat it in large amounts for it to hurt you. That's why you shouldn't eat green potatoes - a potato that has gone green has higher levels of solanine inside it. And it can make you sick, causing a bevy of symptoms that range from nausea, diarrhea and vomiting to hallucinations, paralysis and in the worst cases, death. Unlike humans, however, only a small amount of solanine can hurt your cat. According to FelineFuture.com, "traces of Solanin, like those found in just a 100g of cherry tomatoes, can be fatal!"

Yeast Dough

Raw or uncooked yeast dough should never be fed to your cat. What makes it so dangerous? Yeast (the single-celled fungi that causes bread to rise) isn't toxic per se, but if your cat eats the raw dough, it might continue to rise inside your kitty's stomach. And you can imagine what that could lead to: painful bloating, gas, and in the worst-case-scenario, possible rupture of the stomach or intestines.

Remember, the information in this article is for informative purposes only. If you suspect your cat has eaten something that is harmful, or needs medical attention, contact your veterinarian immediately! For more information about other harmful foods or toxins found in your home, check out these great references: ASPCA Animal Control Archives and PetEducation.com.

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Why Do Dogs Howl?

By On December 31, 2021

Dog Behavior - Why Do Dogs Howl?


Dogs Howl

Do you want to know the secret for getting your dog to stop howling excessively? Keep reading to discover my top 3 tips to achieve this by gaining an understanding of your dog's behavior.

There are several reasons why your dog howls. Let's find out what they are and what you need to understand in order to eliminate the problem. Usually howling is a sign of loneliness, boredom, separation anxiety, howling in response to other dogs, howling at triggers like sirens, or just making their presence known to other dogs in the area. Understanding your dog's behavior can be a daunting task. So in this segment I hope to shed some light on why dogs howl.


So why do dogs howl?

It is an instinctive behavior for dogs to howl, although some dogs have stronger or weaker drives and instincts than others. Dogs, like people, are simply different from one another. Some dogs howl at a trigger like a siren while others do not. Some dogs may feel a need to communicate with the source of the sirens, answering the ancient call of wolves, believing it is actually a pack of dogs communicating from afar.

If your dog is howling excessively, it may indicate that he is bored out of his wits and needs play, love, and attention. A dog should not be deprived of human touch or deprived of a means to entertain himself. If your dog is trying to get your attention by howling, it means there is something lacking in his environment, be it food, water, toys, or companionship.

Everyone enjoys the howl of a wolf now and again, but if your dog is howling excessively, there is something you can do. Simply apply my top three tips.

Tip number one

Spend more time with your dog, even if it is just sitting and watching television. Dogs love companionship and interacting with their owners. Provide your dog with toys and chews to occupy his time while he is enjoying your company. Pay attention to your dog more frequently. Your dog will be too preoccupied with you, and as a result, will howl less often.

Tip number 2

Exercise your dog. Take him for walks so his horizon is expanded and his mind stimulated. The exercise and mental stimulation will make for a restful evening, and night, for both of you.

Tip number 3

Enrich your dog's life with play. Do not just hand him toys and walk away. Get involved in his life and do things your dog likes to do also.

My tips are for healthy dogs who exhibit their natural instinct to howl as wolves do. If your dog has a behavioral disorder, then your dog needs more than tips for normal dog behavior. Your dog needs the help of professionals. Separation anxiety is an example. This kind of howling is usually accompanied by at least one other symptom of separation anxiety such as pacing, destruction, elimination, depression, or other signs of distress.

Now let's recap.

After thousands and thousands of years dogs still cannot shake wild instincts ingrained in them. The key to raising a well adjusted dog is finding balance between the wolf and the pet in your dog. Understand your dog's right to behave like a real dog and make sure his wild side is properly fulfilled by providing an alternative outlet to accommodate his canine instincts and instinctual behaviors.

Hope you enjoyed this segment on Dog Behavior, specifically on the topic of why dogs howl, and hope you walked away with something of value. If you enjoyed this article, subscribe to my channel on YouTube, Dog Behavior Videos. Thank you so much for reading. I look forward to seeing you inside my next article. Please like, share, comment, and subscribe. Until next time. Bye Bye.

By understanding canines and their behavior, you will be able to connect with them on a new level and gain their trust. Series 4 focuses on providing pet owners with answers to why dogs howl. It is an instinctive canine behavior that is rarely understood.

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5 Reasons Why Dogs Eat Their Poop

By On December 29, 2021


Dogs Eat Their Poop

Have you ever seen someone's dog or worse your own eating his own poop. It is a very unpleasant and disgusting sight isn't it. This habit is commonly called coprophagia. Dogs naturally sniff other poops to "read" or find out who has taken a particular territory. To some dogs, however they go the extreme by consuming the altogether.

So why do dogs eat their poop? There are many reasons why some of them resort to this disgusting habit. Below are just 5 of the most popular theories:


1. To supplement his own diet. 

A dog that eats poop is naturally deficient of nutrition. The food he is given at home is probably lacking enough nutrients or vitamins that the poor dog opts to eat the poops of other animals.

2. Stressed or bored dogs. 

Poop eating may be related to boredom or stress. This applies to dogs that are excluded from family life, hence lacking human affection and or attention. They are normally under exercised and stimulated so they resort to habits such as pulling their fur, spinning in circles for hours and ultimately eating their own poop.

3. Dogs carnivorous or scavenger heritage. 

This behavior may be derived from the their natural instinct of being scavengers or carnivores. Carnivores typically will eat the entire carcass of the animal they killed; everything including the digestive tracts that contains poop.

4. Parasites inside the dog's stomach and digestive tract.

 Flat worms or other parasites robs the calories and nutrients from their stomach and digestive tract. Dog with worms will naturally have a voracious appetite to support the parasites in his stomach. An infested dog will turn to even as poop to satisfy the needs of the parasites within.

5. Improperly house trained dogs. 

Dogs that are improperly house trained sometimes will eat their own poop to conceal or attempt to conceal their inappropriate behaviors. This usually happens to dogs who are punished for mistakes.

In addition to the above theories, nursing dogs eat the poop of their puppies to keep the den area clean and hide her pups from potential predators. Puppies too eat their poops because they are emulating the behavior of their mother.

Coprophagia or dog eating their poo is a disgusting habit of some dogs. They naturally sniff other dog poops to "read" a particular territory. To some dogs, however they go the extreme by consuming the poops altogether. You don't want your dog to form this kind of habit; so learn why from the above mentioned theories.

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Best Puppy Food - 6 Considerations To Help You Get It Right

By On December 28, 2021

 Best Puppy Food -

Best Puppy Food - 6 Considerations To Help You Get It Right

He or she is fun, playful, and mischievous and hopefully you and your puppy will enjoy many future years together, which you can do if you get a few simple steps right at the beginning of your life together.

Few people realize the importance of starting a puppy on the right food, for better health and less complications in later life for the dog, yet it is so easy with just six main considerations.


1st Consideration: Solid food too early.

If your new puppy has only had milk from the mother then you should do a transition changeover using a special puppy formula. These formulas are readily available at specialist pet food stores and also online.

Changing from formula to solid food needs to be done gradually by introducing the puppy to the new food in small increments over a couple of weeks, until the formula is fully replaced by solid food.

2nd Consideration: Feed what has been fed.

It may be that your puppy has already started on solid food and if that is the case then continue to feed the same style and preferably brand of food. If you wish to change the food brand, or type, make the change over a number of feeds, and by small amounts at a time.

Failing to change slowly will probably result in your puppy having an upset tummy, which could easily cause vomiting, or diarrhea or both. This will be very upsetting for the puppy and could lead to a distrust of the food bowl if the puppy thinks it has unwanted results after eating.

3rd Consideration: Feeding "adult" food straight away - or too early.

Whilst they are growing puppies need a different formula in their food make - up, which in most cases will be their first year. Yes 12 months, and even longer for the larger breeds, that period of time will be around 18 months or so. A rule of thumb for defining a "large breed" is if the adult weight of the dog will fall into the 50lbs (23kg) or above range.

Some foods will accelerate the"body building system" too fast, causing the real danger of major joint and skeletal problems in later life, and that is a common factor for all sizes of dog.

Buy food that states it is suitable for puppies and look for the notation whether it is NOT suitable for large breed, if that is the category size for your puppy. Many puppy food manufacturers will specify if suitable or not for large breeds on the label or on their website. If in doubt telephone the customer service department of the manufacturer or even choose another product.

Ingredient quality is vital in this "formation" period for puppies. You need to ensure they get the right food and vitamin balance to meet their nutritional needs.

Puppies should be fed 3 or 4 times a day for say the first six months, if that is possible. Then the food amount can be split down into one less feed, and then a few months later reduced to two feeds a day. Many people will then reduce down again for once a day feeding, although as it is better in later years, of a dog's life, to feed twice a day, perhaps this would be a preference to maintain throughout life.

4th Consideration: Food "testing" and Treats.

Many new owners are tempted to give a puppy a piece of food to see if the puppy likes it, or the food is given as a "special treat". This is so wrong because puppies will chew on everything and anything. A grape or piece of chocolate, plus so many other "human" foods, can have a dramatically bad affect on puppies (and adult dogs) some of which are fatal.

Puppy food is the only food that should be given to your puppy.

5th Consideration: Variety is the spice of life.

Let your puppy enjoy the different styles of food such as dry, canned, raw etc. and two things will happen, you will not be developing a fussy eater and every meal time will be an adventure for your puppy! Certainly there is nothing better than a sparkle in the eyes and a wagging tail to enhance feeding time for the owner!

Changing food brands and styles around has the added benefit of preventing any vitamin or mineral "build up" that may occur if only the same brand and style are a constant food source.

There is no better time to encourage acceptance of all food styles than during the puppy stage of life. Do remember though when changing food to do it small steps, and that way you should get acceptance and not rejection.

6th Consideration: Do not impose your lifestyle food preferences.

Your diet may be protein or carbohydrate enriched or you may be vegetarian but these eating regimes should not be imposed on your puppy. Any such preference you may have should only be introduced when the dog has reached adulthood, and only then by consultation with your vet or preferably a canine nutritionist.

As was said earlier this puppy period is highly important in joint and skeletal development, plus long term health, so the best puppy food is one that gives all the essentials needed.

Puppies are a delight and will bring endless hours of fun and excitement for you, your family and those around you.

Your starting point is just six simple considerations in relation to that puppy food.

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Why Do Dogs Shake? Dog Behavior

By On December 28, 2021

  Dog Behavior : Why Do Dogs Shake?

Dog Behavior : Why Do Dogs Shake?

Do you want to know the secret for getting your dog to stop shaking? Keep reading to discover the top 4 common reasons and what you can do for your dog by gaining an understanding of your dog's behavior.

Let's start by clarifying the term 'Shake', and what I'm referring to when I use it. I'm referring to dogs that shiver or tremble while in control of their bodies. If your dog is making eye contact and responding to you, as he is shaking, then your dog has full control of his body; unlike dogs who lose control during a seizure.

So, why do dogs shake?

Your dog could be shaking for common reasons that are easy to remedy or your dog's shaking could indicate that something is medically wrong. I'll discuss those potential medical issues later in this segment. Knowing why your dog is shaking allows you to make an informed decision about his well being with a little more confidence. Now, here are the top four common reasons dogs shake, and what you can do for your dog to help and comfort him during those trying times.

One - Your Dog is Cold

Not unusual, especially for short coat breeds. When a dog is cold, his body shakes to generate heat through muscle movement. It is easy to provide your dog with a little warmth to stop his shaking. Get your dog into a warm environment and/or provide him with a warm bed and blanket.

Two - Your Dog is Anxious or Frightened

Adrenaline release often produces shaking. Dog's adrenal glands release adrenaline to help them deal with the situation. Thunderstorms, fireworks, air travel, car rides, vet visits, grooming parlors, meeting strangers, loud noises; any type of environmental change can cause a dog anxiety or fear. Hold your dog close and reassure him, with love and attention, that there is nothing to fear. He'll feel safe and loved and before long his shaking will cease.

Three - Your Dog is Excited

Your dog is excited about dinner, chasing a squirrel, seeing you after a long day alone, eager to play; for whatever reason, your dog is shaking in anticipation of something happening. Nothing to be concerned about here; your dog will stop shaking when the excitement is over.

Four - Learned Behavior

Your dog has learned that, if he shakes, he will get a desired response from you, whether that response is a sign of affection and attention or a yummy treat. To stop this dog behavior, ignore the shaking, and instead, reward your dog with affection and attention when he is not shaking. Spread your attention, affection, and treats, throughout the day and evening, so your dog will learn he doesn't have to shake to get what he wants.


Now it is time to talk about other reasons why dogs shake.

If your dog is shaking uncontrollably, determine when the shaking initially occurred, any symptoms the dog has, and what parts of the body are affected. All of these are clues to help you recognize a potentially serious health problem. For example, some dogs will shake if their blood sugar is dangerously low or immediately prior to having a seizure. In this segment, some of the reasons why dogs shake are alarming, but will help you determine the difference between healthy dog behavior and signs of a serious illness, and what to do if you suspect a medical condition.

One - Poisoning

A dog that has ingested chocolate, poisonous plants, cigarettes, insecticides, contaminated food, and other harmful materials in high doses may suffer vomiting, diarrhea, and uncontrollable shaking. If you suspect poisoning, get your dog to an emergency hospital immediately.

Two - Distemper

Distemper is a virus that is often seen in puppies before they reach adulthood and dogs that have not been vaccinated. Symptoms are fever, coughing, and nasal discharge; and can also cause shaking and seizures. Puppies that have not been fully vaccinated are at a greater risk of getting the virus. See your vet immediately if you notice symptoms or suspect your dog has been exposed to distemper.

Three - Kidney Disease

Dogs can be symptom free for a very long time. If your dog suddenly starts drinking and urinating more frequently, there is cause for concern. Other signs, including shaking, might follow as your dog's condition progresses. See your vet immediately for therapy and treatment options.

Four - Addison's Disease

Dogs with this disease will show signs of gastrointestinal problems, loss of energy and strength, and little or no appetite; along with shaking. Addison's is often misdiagnosed, which can lead to more severe problems. If your dog seems chronically ill and undernourished, talk to your vet about possible causes.

Five - White Dog Shaker Syndrome

It is a serious illness in small breeds, such as Maltese and West Highland White Terriers that may cause your dog to shake and causes full body tremors in young dogs. Anxiety related dog behaviors are ruled out, as this Syndrome is not a reaction to specific stressors. If you suspect your dog is shaking as a result of this syndrome, consult with your vet immediately.

Six - Fever

If your dog appears to be shaking from the cold while in a warm environment, then your dog might have a fever. Your dog is shaking in an attempt to raise his body temperature. Take your dog's temperature with a rectal thermometer, if possible. If his temperature is above 104 degrees then take your dog to the vet immediately. A temperature above 104 degrees is a medical emergency.

Seven - Pain

Shaking can be a sign of pain. Signs that your dog is in pain are restlessness, changes in behavior, enlarged pupils, over sleeping, hiding, limping, excessive licking or biting, increased vocalization, in need of attention, poor coat, vacant stare, glazed expression, and decreased appetite. Signs of pain are hard to detect in dogs and vary based on the cause of the pain. Because most dogs are very good at hiding pain, your dog is usually in considerable pain by the time you notice a problem. If your dog is shaking and displaying any of the signs discussed, get your dog to a vet.

Eight - Advanced Age

Unfortunately, aged dogs are more vulnerable to shaking and deterioration. Weakened muscles paired with a touch of arthritis make it painful for elder dogs to stand and walk. These symptoms can't be reversed, but you can consult with your vet to discuss available therapies and treatment that will help reduce your dog's discomfort and pain.

Now let's recap.

Dogs shake for many reasons. Recognizing why your dog is shaking is important, especially if there is a health problem. The earlier an illness or disease is diagnosed, the sooner it can be treated.

When dogs are fearful, anxious or excited, their adrenal glands release adrenaline to prepare their bodies to escape from or deal with the situation causing the excitement. If your dog continues to shake in a warm environment, he may have a fever, or another health problem unrelated to the cold. If you are not 100 percent certain, have your dog medically cleared by your vet before assuming the shaking is normal dog behavior.

If your dog shakes and it is not apparent why, then take him to a vet. If your dog's shaking is not constant, then it is a behavioral problem. Are you dealing with normal dog behavior, medical problems, or behavioral problems? If your dog is displaying normal dog behavior, then follow my four tips to help and comfort him. If you are dealing with behavior problems, then work with a professional trainer that offers positive, reward based training. If you suspect you are dealing with a medical problem, consult your vet immediately.

Hope you enjoyed this segment on Dog Behavior, specifically on the topic of why dogs shake, and hope you walked away with something of value. If you enjoyed this article, subscribe to my channel on YouTube, Dog Behavior Videos. Thank you so much for reading. I look forward to seeing you inside my next article. Please like, share, comment, and subscribe. Until next time. Bye Bye.

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What Type Of Cat Feeders And Bowls Should You Get? Here Are Some Tips

By On December 16, 2021

What Type Of Cat Feeders And Bowls Should You Get?

Cats are picky eaters but even troublesome eaters like felines don't need to dine on fine crystals. So does that mean you feed your cat straight from the can? Certainly not, they should have their own sturdy feeders or bowls that are easy to clean.

What kind of feeders or bowls should you get? 

If you spend a lot of time away from home or have more than one furry friend, you may want to take a look at cat feeders that are big enough to enough food for several day's meals. Then, you can be sure your cats are cared for even if you are a bit busy.


Types of cat feeder and bowls

1. The feeder that refills from a reservoir as your pet empties her bowl.

You can use it to feed one feline for several days or you can feed many cats for a day. The disadvantage of this type of feeder ist that aggressive animal can prevent the more timid ones from getting their share of food. It is also harder for you to know how much each cat is eating. So one of your cats may not be eating as much as she usually does without you knowing. This can be a problem because not eating well is a health problem you should know. In addition, cats who are finicky may waste a lot of food by refusing to eat it if it has been sitting in the feeder for more than a few hours.

2. The automatic cat feeder.

This type of feline feeder has several compartments. The feeder's cover has an opening that allows her to eat out of one compartment at a time. A battery operated motor rotates the cover using a timer so that a different compartment is revealed at timed intervals. If your cat(s) tend to be territorial, your she/they may do better with their own individual dishes. Why? Because you can feed them in separate areas of the house more easily. One more thing, while shopping for cat food bowls, look for bowls that are dishwasher safe and unbreakable.

3. The combination

If you only have one cat, then seriously consider the combination feeder. This feeder holds two bowls, one for food and one for water. This type of feeder allows you to keep the feeding area tidy but are easy to clean because you can take the bowls out of the feeder to wash and disinfect them.

4. Heated food bowls

This is reserved for the fussiest felines. These bowls are also a great way to provide local strays with water during the winter months.

Make sure that you clean the food bowls daily. This will keep your cats healthy. You may be able to just drop the bowls in the dishwater if they are dishwasher safe. Remember not to leave food sitting in the bowls for long periods of time, as dry food can grow stale and soft food can spoil. Of course, you should clean your cat's water bowl and re-fill it with fresh, clean water on a daily basis.

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